Gilbert Picq Chablis Dessus La Carriere 2008
Gilbert Picq
Dessus la Carrière is made from two lieux-dits: 33 year-old vines on west-facing Semon and 30 year-old vines at Paradis which faces due south. The two sites share a very unusual sub-soil of solid limestone rock; they sit above an abandoned limestone quarry. The age of the vines and the terroir of uneroded rock make for a bracing, textbook expression of minerality. Aging in stainless steel tanks allows this to come through with great purity and transparency.
International Wine Cellar
Bright, pale yellow. Lemon oil, smoke and a whiff of stony reduction on the nose. The palate begins with almost a sweet impression, but there's also terrific energy and tension to the flavors of liquid rock and orange blossom. I love the combination of ripeness, sweetness of fruit and minerality here. Finishes with superb lift and length-in fact, this is every bit as long as the premier crus here in 2008. Terrific taut, ageworthy wine: Picq told me he bottled a lot of magnums of this juice.
Score: 91.
—Josh Raynolds,
March
2010.
Wine Advocate
Grown in stony chalk from Chichee's quarry, Picq's 2008 Chablis Dessus de Carriere was as usual destined for June bottling so that I last tasted it from tank. As with the Vaudecorse bottling, we have here a bright, intensely mineral and metaphorically cool customer, even though the two wines are utterly distinctive and picked at opposite ends of the harvest. (These are the first grapes picked.) Marine breeze and chalk dust in the nose follow on a palpably dense palate of bright grapefruit, pineapple, and lemon laced with iodine, cherry pit, chalk, moss, and salt that cling so tenaciously you feel as if you are left trying to scrape it off of your teeth. A hint of vanilla - along with heliotrope and blond tobacco - rises from the glass as this takes on air, mimicking a bit of barrel, although like all of Picq's cuvees this never sees a slat of oak. This is like a block of stone in comparison with which the Vaudecorse is practically intangible. Expect it to be well worth following for 4-6 years.
Score: 90-91.
—David Schildknecht,
October
2010.
All sizes are 750mL unless otherwise noted.
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