Shows the great embedded structure of the vintage, with a strong graphite undertow pushing the layers of blackberry, boysenberry and plum fruit, while additional sweet spice, mocha and bittersweet cocoa notes fill in the background. Packed with fruit and terroir, with a gorgeous mouthfeel. Best from 2008 through 2027. 1,500 cases made.

Showing the firm, slightly masculine (even austere) edge of the vintage, the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul offers terrific richness in its black fruits, asphalt, roasted herbs, tar and licorice. Big, full-bodied, structured and tannic, drink it anytime over the coming decade or so.