From a parcel planted in 1933, the 2017 Morgon Les Charmes bursts with scents of cherries, candied peel, grilled meat and ripe plums. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with fine-grained but youthfully chewy structuring tannins and a generous core of fruit. A couple years of cellaring is recommended-Burgaud advocates between 2 and 5 years.