Hugel Estate Riesling 2012
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Slight smoke mixes in the nose of this wine, with lifted mandarin-peel notes. The dry palate is streamlined and has uncommon lightness. It's weightless but concentrated, with full and bright citrus lift and a lively core brimming with lemon, bergamot and lime. The finish is wonderfully clean. This will drink well through 2024, at least.