The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Les Hautes Brusquières (60/40 Grenache and Syrah) comes from a cooler terroir near the Mount Redon plateau and was brought up in oak tronconique tanks and demi-muids. Its dense purple, almost opaque hue is followed by a brilliant perfume of mulled red and black fruits, peppery herbs, crushed stone, violets, and licorice. With full-bodied richness, a layered, multi-dimensional texture, and just about perfect tannins, it's another superstar wine from this estate that's up with the finest vintages to date.

This year, my favorite of the four 2019s from this fine estate is the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale, which emerges from a single parcel of galets roulés planted to a 60-40 mix of Grenache and Syrah. Partially destemmed, it reveals some herbal, stemmy elements on the nose, giving a sense of freshness to the super-ripe black cherry fruit, plus ephemeral notions of tea leaves and rose petals. Full-bodied, silky and concentrated, this wine is long and complex on the finish, with hints of dark chocolate, plum, and red berries. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.