The 2011 Clos Mogador feels ripe, serious and young. Rene Barbier likes to pick ripe grapes but without any raisins making it into the vats. The wine is a blend of the different grapes in his Clos Mogador vineyard (it's just one of a handful of wines officially awarded the single-vineyard label by the Catalan wine institutions): Garnacha, Carinena, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. But the wine speaks more of the place than the grapes, with notes of slate, thyme, rosemary, sage, lavender, black cherries and a supple palate, full-bodied, with pungent flavors, round, velvety tannins and a long aftertaste. This is a superb effort for such a warm vintage, the warmest and driest in Priorat since 2003, and great value for the quality. 30,000 bottles are produced of this prodigious, powerful but balanced Priorat. Drink 2015-2025.

Plum, blackberry and toasty aromas are pure, heady and classy. Immediately this wine shows itself to be powerful: The tannins are grating and the overall outlook is far from shy. Toasty, dark flavors of black fruits, spice and licorice end spicy and blackened, with hard-ripping tannins.

Plush and supple on the palate, this ripe red offers plum, black cherry, kirsch, toast and licorice flavors, with well-integrated tannins and gentle acidity. Pretty but concentrated. Drink now through 2020. 2,000 cases made.