From a particular block with limestone soils, this is indeed a light, steely and minerally white wine, given nine months in French oak, only 17% of it new. It takes on that oak with subtle concentration, offering a touch of baked pineapple, peach and vanilla, ending in a bittersweet bite of Meyer lemon.

The 2012 Chardenet Coteau Blanc, named after the vineyard soils containing gravel and chalk (the latter relatively rare in Napa and Sonoma), saw 17% new French oak for nine months and went through full malolactic. This is a straightforward Chardonnay with a hint of honeysuckle, lemon butter, medium body and a crisp finish. Drink it over the next several years.