This is Fabio Sireci's top wine, and it shows consistent quality year after year (even in a challenging year such as 2018). The organic Feudo Montoni 2018 Sicilia Nero d'Avola Vrucara (with 5,700 bottles made) is a dark and penetrating expression with sweet cherry and blackberry contrasted against tobacco, smoke and baking spice. It delivers nice softness and textural weight. Fabio is experimenting with some stem inclusion using air-dried clusters. I recently hosted a class on the icon wines of Sicily and was proud to include an older vintage of Vrucara.

The 2018 Nero d'Avola Vrucara Prephylloxera is hauntingly dark and floral, dusting exotic spice and crushed violets accentuating red plums and balsam herbs. This is a surprisingly lifted and pure interpretation of Vrucara, with silky textures and mineral-tinged wild berry fruits lifted by brisk acidity. A black licorice twang resonates toward the close. Cocoa and balsamic spice hints linger as the 2018 finishes with crunchy tannins and a lovely honeyed sweetness. The 2018 may not have the stuffing for a long evolution, but it will provide fantastic drinking over the next five to ten years.

The nose on Feudo Montoni's Vrucara Nero d'Avola opens like an old book-leathery and dusty-with dried flowers and then peppery herbs. Cherries, strawberries, vanilla and cola come out on the palate, followed by more herbs and pepper notes. Integrated and elegant, with firm tannins and sparkling acid.

An elegant red, with subtle juiciness to the flavors of baked cherry and raspberry, warm spice, mocha and loamy earth. Fresh and well-knit, with silky tannins and a lingering finish. Nero d'Avola. Drink now through 2028.