This wine is initially quiet and reserved, with light blackberry paste and black-cherry tones that are spiced by hints of dark chocolate, licorice and turned earth. The palate boasts a firm, tannic structure and bright acidity, with flavors of tobacco, chocolate, black plum and blackberry. Herbal and spicy root overtones linger on the close.

Tasted just two weeks prior to bottling, the 2016 Côtes de Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem was in fine form. Tarry, blueberry notes from the high-altitude Syrah dominate, but they're rounded out by Grenache's cherry fruit in this medium to full-bodied wine. Grown at 350 meters above sea level, it shows admirable restraint and fine, silky tannins for a wine from a hot, dry vintage.

Black olive and kirsch notes have a meaty edge in this concentrated red, with supple, full tannins flanking the herb, hot stone and savory spice elements on the finish. Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. Drink now through 2023.