It must be difficult being Cloudy Bay, because fame brings extra scrutiny and the questions, "Does this brand offer value for money in the context of the wider region?" In 2023, the Sauvignon Blanc silences its critics. Its vineyard may be much larger than it once was, but it delivers - dry, clean and elegant, with classic characteristics and the bonus of welcome structure on the finish. It may not be the most flamboyant on the nose, focusing more on the herbal rather than tropical spectrum (whether that's elderflower, gooseberry or classic passion fruit), but that seems to be a function of the vintage. The 2023 is long, fragrant and exactly what you want from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but with an extra layer of class.