Gaia Gaja uses the word "salty" to describe this next wine, and I see her point. The 2010 Sori Tildin shows a dry, firmly structured quality that enhances those extraordinary, breezy overtones of lead pencil and brimstone that so fittingly frame the Nebbiolo grape. The lingering end-notes of rose petal, ginger and cedar are striking. You immediately feel the tannic structure and power of the wine. The jump is very sharp next to the Costa Russi, and that's why this is one of Gaja's best cellar-agers. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.

Displaying plenty of cherry, raspberry and floral notes, this is well-structured and balanced, with hints of sweet spices gracing the finish. Very expressive now, showing the potential to age. Juicy and long. Best from 2016 through 2029.