The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (15% alcohol) emerges from a cold terroir in the northern sector of the appellation. The blend is generally 85% Grenache and equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre. Its opaque purple color is followed by a sumptuous perfume of creme de cassis, kirsch liqueur, licorice, plums, minerals, and smoke. Mammoth in the mouth, but surprisingly structured and tannic for a 2000, it is more evolved than its 2001 counterpart. This profound Chateauneuf should evolve slowly and age magnificently for two decades. It is a monumental effort, but patience will be a virtue. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.

Pretty. Floral, plum, smoke and cassis notes make for a charming red. Medium-bodied, nothing too complex--it's more fruit- than terroir-driven--but the tannins are ripe and the finish delicious. Drink now through 2008.- PM