Still young and surprisingly tight, with a racy beam of red and black currant fruit that slowly unwinds on the palate to show hints of spice cake, sweet earth, licorice and mineral. The superlong, racy finish is carried by the riveting acidity. This still needs some cellaring.--1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape retrospective. Best from 2008 through 2027. 330 cases made.

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes actually showed better than the Reserve, which normally doesn't make sense. There are no oxidative issues with this wine. It has a dark plum/ruby color with no lightening at the edge, and exhibits sweet black raspberry, blackberry, charcoal and creosote notes, with some garrigue, pepper, and meat juices. Full-bodied, opulent, and close to reaching full maturity, this wine should last for another 5-7 years.