The 2020 Dry Riesling No. 239 comes in with five grams of residual sugar, 7.8 of total acidity and 13.1% alcohol. This is quite a performance, often stunning. Showing superb concentration, this adds power and a long finish. There's plenty of tension, and the acidity slices through the fruit without the wine ever becoming shrill. It always emphasizes its fruit, but that fruit is always perfectly supported by the brilliant structure. It will need a food pairing to show its best. The only real question here is how much it might improve if you have the patience to cellar it for a few years. If it gets no better, it is still super. For the moment, it looks like one of the finest bargains in this report, which is full of them.

Fresh and sleek in feel, with pear, yellow apple and honeysuckle notes streaming through. Reveals nice underlying tension on the finish. Drink now. 1,175 cases made.